高高山
发表于 2025-7-19 10:22:37
云南泸沽湖历游记（二）
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data-track="2">我与小蕾离开了泸沽湖胜境，回到了小型精品旅游车上。导游按家庭号点齐人数后，嘴角露出了笑容，幽默地对大家说：“各位驴友，下面我们就要到摩梭族女儿国走婚桥去走婚了，大家精神点，女儿国美女随便挑啊，别像唐僧似的被吓回来哈！”导游诙谐的言语让车上驴友们忍俊不禁。“哈哈哈”的一片哄堂大笑，车上一阵骚乱、一阵喧哗。仿佛车子也能听懂似的，沿着泸沽湖边的国道线上快速地行驶，仿佛我们这些人真要赶着去走婚似的，反正这车子是十分给力。路上紧赶慢赶地开了一个小时，车子终于驶入了闻名天下的走婚桥景区。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="3">走婚桥位于四川省凉山州盐源县境内的泸沽湖畔，是连接着云南省和四川省的一座特殊的桥梁。他坐落于泸沽湖东南水域的草海区域，是泸沽湖上唯一的座桥。桥长300余米横跨草海两岸，由木头建造而成。走婚桥不仅方便了两岸老百姓的通行，同时在过去的战争中，为土司集中两岸兵力起到了重要作用。走婚桥是奉行“男不娶、女不嫁”的摩梭阿夏羞涩初会时的浪漫步道，是阿夏走婚的要道，被誉为“天下第一爱情鹊桥”。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="4">驴友们下车后，走过了一段很长的商业街路面，而后才转入到走婚桥上，走婚桥上是游客往来参观游览的独立景观，不得设立任何买卖摊点，只有这样，才能让走婚桥的氛围变得更加的纯净而美丽。泸沽湖四周依然被连绵起伏的群山所环抱，纯净的蓝天白云衬托着湛蓝碧绿的湖水，衬托着纵横七千余米的芦苇草海，神圣的猪槽船在芦苇荡中划来划去的忙碌着，一群野鸭在走婚桥近处的水域中憩息觅食，自由自在的玩耍，美景如诗如画！这简直是无与伦比的仙山风光！无与伦比的仙湖游览胜地！极目远眺，多姿多彩！场景辽阔，雄伟壮丽！</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="5">春风吹拂，空气清新，我与小蕾走在走婚桥上，心情格外舒畅，仿佛一下子年轻了许多。有中国诗词学会会员、金华市作家协会会员、诗人好友张永锦老师开玩笑说：“高山老师，你去走婚了吗？！”我笑着说：“哈哈哈，张老师，我还真去了，又重温了一次青春时期的甜蜜风情……”哈哈，开了个玩笑，热闹热闹气氛哈。我俩边走边聊边观赏美景，心情格外开朗，面对此情此景，勾起了我们青春时期的许多美好的回忆，现在想想依然是很甜蜜很享受，甚至是难以忘怀。爱情真神秘，崇高而伟大！</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250719101648front1_0_1054298_FtvZaUjpXgiVU7Hsn9GU9HaDhe5r.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="1440" data-qf-origin="forum/20250719101648front1_0_1054298_FtvZaUjpXgiVU7Hsn9GU9HaDhe5r.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250719101648front1_0_1054298_FtvZaUjpXgiVU7Hsn9GU9HaDhe5r.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250719101648front1_0_1054298_FtvZaUjpXgiVU7Hsn9GU9HaDhe5r.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250719101732front1_0_1054298_FmBoj6yiFP3FKRRU-_jHc8XQo-HR.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="810" data-qf-origin="forum/20250719101732front1_0_1054298_FmBoj6yiFP3FKRRU-_jHc8XQo-HR.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250719101732front1_0_1054298_FmBoj6yiFP3FKRRU-_jHc8XQo-HR.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250719101732front1_0_1054298_FmBoj6yiFP3FKRRU-_jHc8XQo-HR.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>此图片来自网络</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="22"> </p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="22">泸沽湖走婚桥两岸居住着成千上万户摩梭人家，大约有四五万摩梭人。泸沽湖是中国最高的内陆湖之一，海拔2685米，1982年以前，没有公路通往泸沽湖。摩梭人是母系社会，一切以女主为大。走婚是摩梭人的一种婚姻模式。摩梭人在年满13岁那年施成人礼，培养姑娘长大，建造女性独立房间，独立于祖母屋外，祖母屋是大家族居住的地方。男方一般18-20岁开始走婚，走婚的男女，关系平等。他们不讲经济条件，不讲社会地位，不讲文化高低，彩礼嫁妆与他们无关，也不存在“父母之命、媒妁之言”的封建规矩。只要建立真感情就好，爱情真挚不变心，就是长久夫妻。在走婚中，摩梭人称女友为“阿夏”，称男友为“阿注”。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="8">摩梭人的夜晚是五彩斑斓的，闪烁着智慧与喜悦的光芒。每当夜幕降临，摩梭人成年男子们就出去了，他们当中有各位舅舅、哥哥、弟弟，各奔东西南北，去自己的“阿夏”家共享欢乐时光。而各位“阿夏”们也在家中等候着自己心中的“白马王子阿注”的到来。当家长的母亲特别忙，既要打点舅舅和兄弟出门，又要照料家中老母和姐妹与小孩们，还要接待自己的“阿注”丈夫来幽会，简直忙得不亦乐乎。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="9">“阿注”到“阿夏”家去幽会走婚，初期是需要爬墙进“阿夏”房间的。不管动静多大，母系社会大家庭中的老人、家长、姐妹与小孩们全然不管不问。进房后他把帽子挂在窗外，暗示这家已有人在幽会，请勿打扰。等建立了深厚感情，生下了孩子，小孩归母家生养，生父会在满月时公开举办宴席，承认彼此的血缘关系，避免发生同父乱伦。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="23">摩梭人走婚各有各的幽会暗号和传情方式，在日间，“阿夏”与“阿注”真诚交往，看中了“阿夏”，就会扣“阿夏”手心，同时阿夏也看中了“阿注”，就会主动告知闺房住处与幽会走婚暗号。在以后的交往中，发现两人性格不合感情转淡，随时可以断交，不存在白睡不白睡的问题，不要负责任，只要阿夏说：“你明天不要来了。”或者阿注说：“我明天不来了。” 结束恋情就这么简单。这不代表你可以这边那边的幽会走婚，要结束前一段感情后才可以再去走婚，否则是不道德的，会被摩梭人所唾弃……</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="24">驴友们过了走婚桥，走过了一段商业街，又走过了自然保护区的缓冲区域，沿着直路往前走，下午三点四十九分钟，我们来到了山区边的扎俄洛古村落。扎俄洛房屋建筑古色古香，基本保持着少数民族的传统风格，除此之外，也有三分之一的现代风格的建筑，村子里道路宽敞，整洁干净，环境清幽，商店遍地开花，差不多家家户户都开有商店。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="12">离村子十字路口不远处，有一座喇嘛寺，名为雍仲林寺，这座寺庙是泸沽湖唯一的苯波教寺庙。此时离集合时间尚早，驴友们都在四处商店里转悠，我与小蕾便循路来到了喇嘛寺参观游览了一番。我们走过了白塔雕塑的围墙，里面就是喇嘛寺的广场，远远望去，只见喇嘛寺建筑宏伟，造型精美，雕梁画栋，飞檐翘角，瓦屋穹顶分六层式交叉建筑，一层小于一层，最高一层活像大鹰之头，整个造型宛若雄鹰展翅，生动活泼，雄伟壮观！</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="13">我们循台阶而上，台阶两边有一对石狮子守在广场边，中间摆放着一个特大型香炉，供游客信徒们点香拜佛之用。上了台阶，也有一对石狮子守在大门口，大门两侧圆柱上盘有双龙的雕像，嘴含仙珠怒目圆瞪，气势汹汹。我与小蕾走进了庙堂，只见庙堂内金碧辉煌，金光闪闪，仿佛射出了万道光芒。从二楼到庙堂，装饰豪华气派，新颖亮丽，建筑如同宫殿般辉煌灿烂，穹顶四壁呈现出了祥和的珠光宝气。庙堂内佛像活灵活现，金光闪耀，庄严肃穆。我们宛若来到了仙境！</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="14">从喇嘛寺出来，时间也差不多了，导游点齐人数后，就领着我们朝着四川泸沽湖格姆女神山方向前进，到地方后，导游安排大家去住宿，我们住进了泸沽湖边上的“澜泊湾花园美宿”。大家放下行李后，就随着导游到酒店去吃晚饭，晚饭后大家可自由活动，也可去观赏摩梭人演出的篝火晚会。住地离泸沽湖很近，离格姆女神山更近，明早起来就可以去格姆女神山玩了。（未完待续）</p><p 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src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250719101925front1_0_1054298_FppO5qfZIRFeSxBYqPg_aVV5Ia5T.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="810" data-qf-origin="forum/20250719101925front1_0_1054298_FppO5qfZIRFeSxBYqPg_aVV5Ia5T.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="">格姆女神山</p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p style="font-weight: 400;"> </p><p> </p><p> </p> <!----></div>
清秀淡雅
发表于 2025-7-19 10:43:01
https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1
清秀淡雅
发表于 2025-7-19 10:44:21
王老师夫妇惬意，让人好生羡慕
zhou8548
发表于 2025-7-19 11:52:31
https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1
zhou8548
发表于 2025-7-19 11:53:40
欣赏高山老师佳作，超赞！
雪娜
发表于 2025-7-19 18:31:01
:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory:
雪娜
发表于 2025-7-19 18:31:16
https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1
成老师
发表于 2025-7-19 20:11:48
欣赏高山老师游记佳作，超赞！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory:
成老师
发表于 2025-7-19 20:13:20
高山老师的游记叙述描写细致入微，生动形象，丰富多彩，引人入胜，读起来津津有味！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory:
成老师
发表于 2025-7-19 20:14:41
高山和小蕾，是旅游达人，令人羡慕！