云南泸沽湖历游记（三）
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723115536front1_0_1054298_Fj5sovBhIjj5WCycrIs3BaR_Wx-D.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="810" data-qf-origin="forum/20250723115536front1_0_1054298_Fj5sovBhIjj5WCycrIs3BaR_Wx-D.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723115536front1_0_1054298_Fj5sovBhIjj5WCycrIs3BaR_Wx-D.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250723115536front1_0_1054298_Fj5sovBhIjj5WCycrIs3BaR_Wx-D.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723115536front1_0_1054298_FstXanzgObfY0xYr87LT_wstD0oK.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="810" data-qf-origin="forum/20250723115536front1_0_1054298_FstXanzgObfY0xYr87LT_wstD0oK.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723115536front1_0_1054298_FstXanzgObfY0xYr87LT_wstD0oK.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250723115536front1_0_1054298_FstXanzgObfY0xYr87LT_wstD0oK.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="51">晚上七点钟，我与小蕾来到了“篝火晚会演艺中心”，演艺中心门口站满了前来观赏篝火晚会的驴友们。大家一定会问我：“门票多少钱一张？” “门票每张35元钱。” 篝火晚会七点半准时开演，此时已有驴友们陆陆续续的进场了，小蕾拉着我也一起走了进去。我边走边看了看此处的房屋建筑，这是一幢较为宽敞的二层式木结构楼房建筑，精心打造，性能牢固实用，凝聚了摩梭人温馨浓厚的传统建筑风格。演艺厅堂高大宽广，二楼设有一个精致的花楼，二楼围栏一圈有细小的雕刻作品和精美的图案装饰，演艺中心穹顶上挂满了彩旗，气氛热烈而祥和。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="33">篝火晚会是泸沽湖地区风格独特的民俗活动，融合了传统婚俗、歌舞表演和游客互动的精彩场景，也是摩梭人“走婚”习俗的重要社交场所，“阿夏”（美女）、“阿注”（帅哥）们通过翩翩起舞和甜美的歌声向对方传递情意，若阿注看中了阿夏，就会连扣阿夏手心三次，多扣一次显轻浮，少扣一次不够诚意，若阿夏也看中了阿注，就会把自己的住处花楼告诉阿注，这样，阿注就可以到阿夏家去幽会走婚了。这一习俗源于摩梭母系社会的传统文化，女性在婚恋中占据主动地位，生下孩子随母姓，并由母系家族抚养成长。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="34">篝火晚会准时开始，摩梭人穿着色彩鲜艳的民族服饰登台亮相，绕场一圈，展现出了摩梭人的气势与自信，信仰与智慧。头人点燃了篝火，祭拜了祖先，而后表演了摩梭人犁田耕种、划船打渔、买卖交易等场景，展现了摩梭人农耕时代的田园风光以及热爱劳动的生活智慧。一群青年男女围着篝火载歌载舞，节奏明快，刚柔相济，热情奔放，欢快的歌声久久地回荡在演艺厅的上空。他们以精彩的浪漫情怀，演绎了摩梭人从幽会到“走婚”的全过程，生动逼真，让人记忆深刻。随后摩梭人邀请游客参与活动，共同围着篝火翩翩起舞，氛围欢快而热烈。篝火晚会就在这样的氛围中圆满结束了。</p><p> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723115603front1_0_1054298_FnmS-NQ9DnfaHKDhjw-vwy63i9TR.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="810" data-qf-origin="forum/20250723115603front1_0_1054298_FnmS-NQ9DnfaHKDhjw-vwy63i9TR.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723115603front1_0_1054298_FnmS-NQ9DnfaHKDhjw-vwy63i9TR.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250723115603front1_0_1054298_FnmS-NQ9DnfaHKDhjw-vwy63i9TR.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723115603front1_0_1054298_FoW4ZSs84qjx_taIvWXQ1KyEb-M4.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="810" data-qf-origin="forum/20250723115603front1_0_1054298_FoW4ZSs84qjx_taIvWXQ1KyEb-M4.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723115603front1_0_1054298_FoW4ZSs84qjx_taIvWXQ1KyEb-M4.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250723115603front1_0_1054298_FoW4ZSs84qjx_taIvWXQ1KyEb-M4.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>格姆女神山位于云南省丽江市宁蒗县永宁镇境内，海拔3774米，大约高出湖面1000米左右，山中植被丰厚，原始森林景观天然，山高林密，高耸入云，是泸沽湖地区最高的山峰。也是野生动物赖以繁衍生息的好地方。远远望去，格姆女神山如同一只沉睡在泸沽湖边的强壮的狮子，故又称狮子山，狮子山巍峨高大，极其的雄伟壮观。格姆女神山，在摩梭人的心目中是圣山，是摩梭母系社会女神的化身，每年的农历七月二十五日摩梭族人全部前往山下顶礼膜拜，祭祀女神，这天是摩梭族人最隆重的节日。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="36">关于格姆女神山，摩梭族民间广为流传着一段美丽而精彩的神话故事：传说泸沽湖一带早先没有山，而格姆女仙经常和众男山神夜里从北方飞来湖里洗澡，谈情说爱，雄鸡报晓时又飞回北方。某夜，众男山神等候了很久，格姆女仙姗姗来迟，他们正要嬉戏，此刻正是雄鸡报晓，东方发白，他们飞不回去了，于是格姆女仙便流落在泸沽湖畔，变成了现在的格姆女神山，众男神则簇拥在她的周围，分别变成了哈瓦男山、则支男山、阿沙男山等。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="58">还传说格姆女神很善良，她时而骑着白马，时而骑着神鹿外出巡游，不仅保佑这一带人畜兴旺，风调雨顺，五谷丰登，而且特别赐予妇女体壮貌美，婚姻幸福，子孙繁衍。又说这位格姆女神十分美丽，她与周围的男山神结交“阿夏”（情侣），过着自由的生活。每年农历七月二十五日是格姆女神的节日，各地山神都要前来聚会欢娱。据说这个庆典活动已有一千多年的历史。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="57">第二天早上七点，导游就领着我们来到了泸沽湖尼塞村格姆女神山索道站。虽然还没到上班时间，索道站的工作人员就已经开始输送游客上山了。工作人员和蔼敬业，关照游客细心周到，这让游客们感觉很温馨。此时，排队坐索道上山的人已然不少，我们的前面也有很多人在等候，轮到我们上山时已是七点半多了。据说山顶上有个女神洞，洞内钟乳石五彩斑斓，变化奇妙，景色壮观。山上风景优美，站在女神洞洞口，可俯瞰整个泸沽湖的全景风光。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723122153front1_0_1054298_FufcsKqqx7_ngNZSvtKFE4IEBy0B.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="1440" data-qf-origin="forum/20250723122153front1_0_1054298_FufcsKqqx7_ngNZSvtKFE4IEBy0B.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723122153front1_0_1054298_FufcsKqqx7_ngNZSvtKFE4IEBy0B.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250723122153front1_0_1054298_FufcsKqqx7_ngNZSvtKFE4IEBy0B.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723122137front1_0_1054298_Fj1TEqLpxhsfwmGonGQ0A67RvEzg.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="810" data-qf-origin="forum/20250723122137front1_0_1054298_Fj1TEqLpxhsfwmGonGQ0A67RvEzg.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250723122137front1_0_1054298_Fj1TEqLpxhsfwmGonGQ0A67RvEzg.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250723122137front1_0_1054298_Fj1TEqLpxhsfwmGonGQ0A67RvEzg.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>我与小蕾坐上了悬空的索道座椅，胸前横着一根保险杠的那种，觉得挺有意思的。索道拽着悬空座椅腾空而起，朝着离此1500多米远的山峰划去，大约需要二十分钟时间。这种索道对于没坐过的人来说，心里可能会有点慌张，摇摇晃晃的似乎有点惊险，它不同于缆车，缆车四面围着比较安全。工作人员指导游客们放松身心，抓牢扶手，大胆挑战，没事的。多年前我与小蕾在山东崂山坐过一次，因此胆壮。坐索道观赏格姆女神山，只觉得前面山势陡峭险峻，树木粗壮参天，森林青翠欲滴，阳光和煦，空气清新，越接近山顶越舒服。索道坐椅颤悠悠地顺势而进，有时会有些摇摇晃晃的微小的震抖，这实在是一种在大山深处高空中的开心快乐的享受。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="39">到达索道站后，大家各自循山路往上攀登，虽有台阶上去，但有些地方险峻陡峭，路窄难行，需要小心攀爬。大约攀爬了四五百级台阶处，有一个很宽大的观景平台，这里可以观赏到泸沽湖全景风光，大部分游客都滞留在这里，不肯再往上攀登了。再往上攀登五六百级台阶，就可以到达传说中的美丽的女神洞天了。我与小蕾在此观景台上玩了一会儿后，继续往上攀登，和我们一起同行的还有两对年轻漂亮的情侣。路上，遇到了三三两两从山上下来的驴友，都说仙女洞光怪陆离，别有洞天，好看极了。见如此说，我们上山的脚步就更加轻快。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="40">上午八点，我与小蕾站在格姆女神山上，只见旭日从隔岸泸沽湖千山万壑中冉冉升起，群山起伏，湖水浩荡，一片灿烂金光，阳光穿透高大浓密的树林子，直射入到了格姆女神山上，山上散发着迷人的色彩，一群猴子欢聚在一起，树上树下活蹦乱跳，小蕾向他们撒去了大量的零食，不一会儿就吃完了，看看我们手里没了零食，他们也就算啦。天然景观，韵味无穷。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="41">走着走着，路上又遇到一群猴子，猴子并不怕人，而是用闪亮的眼睛注视着我们，仿佛在说：“你不犯我，我也不犯你，你若犯我，我决不客气。” 这群猴子长像俊俏，毛色光亮干净，挺招人喜欢。我们当中有一小伙一路上说自己很胆小，可这会却胆大了起来，他拿了根树枝去撩拨猴儿，猴儿不乐意了，他还只管撩拨人家发火，结果先是他的女朋友遭殃，装满零食的的塑料袋被群猴抢跑了，他转身想去追，却冷不防背后屁股上被他撩拨发怒的猴哥猛踹了一脚，差点立身不稳滚下山崖，半晌才缓过神来。他想追打这些猴儿，可猴儿们比什么都灵，早就一溜烟的不见了踪影。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="42">小姐姐差点要哭了，满脸委屈地说道：“完了，完了，吃的东西一点也没有了，包里还有墨镜口红之类的东西，都给猴子抢去了……”</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="43">另一对情侣忙说：“哦，不要紧的，吃我们的，吃我们的……”</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="44">那小帅哥顾不上自己难受，赶紧上前安慰小姐姐说：“英子，别难过了，吃的东西没了就没了，我们可以到山上的店里去买，其他东西没了，下山后我陪你去买就是了。”见如此说，小姐姐秀美的大眼睛里含满了笑意，转嗔为喜了。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="45">沿途大家说说笑笑，一路欢声笑语，很快就登上了山顶。山顶上有一个仙女洞，洞口左边壁上写着：中国第一高海拔天然溶洞，海拔3450米。上午八点二十一分钟，我与小蕾登上了仙女洞，那两对情侣也紧随着跟了上来，洞内游人不多，看着又有两三个人撤离了仙女洞，而我们却继续往上攀登。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="46">洞内钟乳石五光十色，琳琅满目，光怪陆离，变幻莫测。我们穿崖壁，登上高处，行走在峡谷间，格姆女神座像若隐若现，仿佛就在高处跟随窥视着我们，让我们心里感觉非常踏实。洞内有一深潭，据上一波游客说，潭水甘甜爽口，他们喝过，而我们却不想去喝。洞内景色壮观，让人流连忘返。刚巧在此时我接到了导游电话，导游催促说：“高山，我们要去坐船游泸沽湖了，就等你俩了，快下来吧。”我们边答应导游边走出了仙女洞。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="47">我们在仙女洞边的观景平台上朝着泸沽湖匆匆一瞥，泸沽湖全景风光美的令人窒息，令人震撼！令人流连忘返！我们循原路坐索道往回赶，一路饱览了泸沽湖醉人的美景风光！</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="48">导游集合队伍，领着我们去观赏摩梭族人的白塔风光与村落建筑等，加深了解摩梭文化体系。而后安排大家在泸沽湖边的大片沙滩上自由活动数小时，数十里长的情人滩上，风光旖旎，景色秀丽，游人流连忘返。在此玩半天也不会觉得无聊。下午四点钟，我们来到了泸沽湖情人滩边的沙滩上，等候上船畅游泸沽湖。船是村民家的土木船，虽然不是机动大船，我看却是十分的好玩有趣，别有一番风味。等驴友们坐好后，船家女主人就掌舵着船只向泸沽湖深处划去，领着我们畅游泸沽湖美丽的湖光山色，观赏着大美的天然景观。清澈湛蓝的湖水，能见度12米，我们坐在船上，可看到船底下大鱼小鱼游来游去的美妙盛况。</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="49">船家女主人说：“各位游客，泸沽湖水清澈纯净，甘甜爽口，大家可以尝一尝，我们出门从不带茶水，渴了就喝一口泸沽湖水，真的很爽。”说完她就舀了一碗喝了起来，见如此，我们大家也手捧泸沽湖水喝了起来，还真是甘甜爽口啊……</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="61">船家女主人一高兴，就情不自禁地哼起了摩梭小曲：" ······小阿哥，小阿哥，有緣千里来相会，河水湖水都是水，冷水烧茶慢慢热。阿哥，阿哥，玛达米，玛达米，玛达米。 情哥哥，情哥哥，人心真比金子贵，只要情意深如海，花儿就会成双对。阿哥，阿哥，玛达米，玛达米，玛达米。······”</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="62">甜美的歌声久久地回荡在泸沽湖的上空，经久不息，驴友们报以热烈的掌声。船家女主人划着船往回走，慢慢地靠了岸，等船停稳，驴友们也慢慢地下了船，回看泸沽湖的盛景盛况，实在是难舍难分，泸沽湖，美丽的泸沽湖！再见了！······ （完）</p><p style="font-weight: 400;" data-track="62"> </p><p 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<!----></div> 欣赏高山老师佳作超赞:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 跟随高山老师饱览了泸沽湖美景，惬意非凡！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 泸沽湖篝火晚会的描写细致入微，生动形象，丰富多彩，令人向往:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 若阿注看中了阿夏，就会连扣阿夏手心三次，多扣一次显轻浮，少扣一次不够诚意，若阿夏也看中了阿注，就会把自己的住处花楼告诉阿注，这样，阿注就可以到阿夏家去幽会走婚了。这一习俗源于摩梭母系社会的传统文化，女性在婚恋中占据主动地位，生下孩子随母姓，并由母系家族抚养成长。:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 泸沽湖全景风光美的令人窒息，令人震撼！令人流连忘返！我们循原路坐索道往回赶，一路饱览了泸沽湖醉人的美景风光！
:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 高山和小蕾是旅行家、美食家、摄影师！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: