德瑞夏日纪行（二）
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p>文/洪其璜</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152227front2_0_903999_FsFaJohF4nGgfyJODy-6leNOAdG-.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="1440" data-qf-origin="forum/20251008152227front2_0_903999_FsFaJohF4nGgfyJODy-6leNOAdG-.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152227front2_0_903999_FsFaJohF4nGgfyJODy-6leNOAdG-.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251008152227front2_0_903999_FsFaJohF4nGgfyJODy-6leNOAdG-.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>（接上篇）</p><p> 20日，作别汉堡</p><p> 清晨七点，我和老伴出酒店，漫步在沿河林荫道，脚下碎石轻响，头顶乔木参天，树丫交错，筛下碎金般的晨光。河水澄澈——一叶划艇悄然滑过，桨叶轻摇，漾起细漪。田野静谧，造型别致的木屋稀疏点缀其间，花篱与草坪修剪得井井有条。空气中浮着初阳烘出的草香，在河畔缓缓升腾，我们不由自主地放慢脚步，像两株被晨光牵住的根须，迟迟不能拔离。</p><p> 待回到酒店，远处教堂的钟声正敲十点，我们把房卡递回前台。然后步行十分钟，来到丁听别墅。此时儿子恰好从租车公司提车归来，将银灰色旅行车停于路边。</p><p> 在主人家用过午餐后，趁大家把行囊一件件搬上车的间隙，儿媳与闺蜜低声笑语，并肩行走在小区的林荫道上；孙女拉着丁听儿子，在草丛里寻四叶草，童声一串，落进夏日的光斑。</p><p> 相会总伴别离，我们挥手与丁听夫妇道别，随即钻进车厢。儿子轻踩油门，车子驶出林荫，向维尔茨堡驶出发，后视镜里，汉堡的雅韵与钟声正依次远去，把刚拉开的帷幕又轻轻阖上。</p><p> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152307front2_0_903999_FsE1TRhPKp85K3_sns36OubRxyfs.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3744" height="2808" data-qf-origin="forum/20251008152307front2_0_903999_FsE1TRhPKp85K3_sns36OubRxyfs.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152307front2_0_903999_FsE1TRhPKp85K3_sns36OubRxyfs.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251008152307front2_0_903999_FsE1TRhPKp85K3_sns36OubRxyfs.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 德国高速单向二车道是常态，偶有三车道。路基宽厚平整，行驶的车辆不多。蓝底白字的路牌上，限速数字常被灰色斜杠划去，我们的车速表针不时飙到180 km/h，仍有车从左侧车道呼啸而过。</p><p> 一路停停走走，高速公路的服务区可热闹得像个小镇集市，如厕1欧元，还得排长队，矿泉水、可乐统售3 欧元，仍有人整箱拎走，各式西点食品被人们争相购买。沿路偶尔可见简陋停车点，唯空场加一座免费公厕，别无其它设施，尽显德国人的“精打细算”。</p><p> 从汉堡到维尔茨堡，含补给加油前后用了七小时。21:30 导航提示“已到达”，一天的奔波，终于摔进维尔茨堡老城边缘的那家酒店。</p><p> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152346front2_0_903999_Frsf88YybE3OG8Vs5alfEBm2Qj3x.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4000" height="3000" data-qf-origin="forum/20251008152346front2_0_903999_Frsf88YybE3OG8Vs5alfEBm2Qj3x.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152346front2_0_903999_Frsf88YybE3OG8Vs5alfEBm2Qj3x.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251008152346front2_0_903999_Frsf88YybE3OG8Vs5alfEBm2Qj3x.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 21日 维尔茨堡的浅浮雕与阿尔卑斯的午夜山风</p><p> </p><p> 清晨，薄雾初敛，一家人踏入维尔茨堡。老城天际线低伏，街景质朴，像旧画册缓缓摊开：巷弄蜿蜒，青石板泛着幽暗水光；三节车厢的城轨电车，从时光里滑出又无声掠过；哥特尖顶与巴洛克立面比肩，红瓦斜檐层层跌向美因河。整座老城像被时间压印成砖石浮雕，拱窗、曲线与鎏金细节，悄悄隐入瓦缝墙隅。</p><p> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152442front2_0_903999_FhdS5oJMQv63erfJU87RKaykFl9l.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="2000" height="3376" data-qf-origin="forum/20251008152442front2_0_903999_FhdS5oJMQv63erfJU87RKaykFl9l.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152442front2_0_903999_FhdS5oJMQv63erfJU87RKaykFl9l.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251008152442front2_0_903999_FhdS5oJMQv63erfJU87RKaykFl9l.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 穿街走巷，主教宫赫然在目，这座欧洲最华丽的宫廷出自巴尔塔萨·诺伊曼之手，建于1720-1744年间，前后历时十余年，堪称德国巴洛克之冠。</p><p> 购票入内，儿子儿媳举机定格，我与老伴牵着孙女的小手徜徉其中。宫内装饰极尽豪华与尊贵，仿佛抬手便可触及十八世纪的辉煌：</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152631front2_0_903999_Fo0S0TQIwFX7KXAwrT-aBZCkTJBI.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="968" height="1304" data-qf-origin="forum/20251008152631front2_0_903999_Fo0S0TQIwFX7KXAwrT-aBZCkTJBI.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152631front2_0_903999_Fo0S0TQIwFX7KXAwrT-aBZCkTJBI.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251008152631front2_0_903999_Fo0S0TQIwFX7KXAwrT-aBZCkTJBI.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>穹顶坦培拉绘出《四洲朝觐》，金箔贴压其上，熠熠生辉；欧罗巴手持丰饶角，亚细亚骑象而来。颜料层薄得能看见羽毛笔锋的勾线。浮雕饰带环绕一周，玫瑰与贝壳卷成洛可可的漩涡。金箔厚度薄如蝉翼，却仍闪出晨辉般的暖光。</p><p> 地面大理石拼成几何迷宫，米黄、赭红、黛灰三种矿脉严丝合缝，映出祖孙三代的倒影——被拉成细长，像要走进壁画里赴那场宫廷舞会。大家不约而同放轻脚步，屏息凝神，生怕惊扰壁画里浅睡的洛可可，也唯恐错过与古文明初次相遇的悸动。</p><p> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152554front2_0_903999_Fseqd8uQqOeiryGqNBOgJQ8Splte.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3908" height="2932" data-qf-origin="forum/20251008152554front2_0_903999_Fseqd8uQqOeiryGqNBOgJQ8Splte.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152554front2_0_903999_Fseqd8uQqOeiryGqNBOgJQ8Splte.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251008152554front2_0_903999_Fseqd8uQqOeiryGqNBOgJQ8Splte.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 一家人缓缓步下台阶，出主教宫，沿美茵河行走——它属于莱茵河右岸的支流，河道蜿蜒如带，浓荫与云朵沉入水底，远远望去，似被风轻轻熨平的古织锦。踏上始建于十二世纪、十五世纪后期扩建的老美因河桥——昔日南北商道的咽喉，石栏斑驳，桥影卧波。桥中央那二座巴洛克圣像，是1730年加建，替代中世界桥塔，二战末被炸毁，1970年代按原样复刻。置身其中，每一步都犹如踩进十五世纪马蹄声回荡的缝隙里。 </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152708front2_0_903999_Fo5bJWvFiblIuZPE-sc8gHkwQ4k8.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="2000" height="3000" data-qf-origin="forum/20251008152708front2_0_903999_Fo5bJWvFiblIuZPE-sc8gHkwQ4k8.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008152708front2_0_903999_Fo5bJWvFiblIuZPE-sc8gHkwQ4k8.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251008152708front2_0_903999_Fo5bJWvFiblIuZPE-sc8gHkwQ4k8.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 当日的维尔茨堡时光在快门与足音中很快翻完。午后两点，按今晚夜宿瑞士的既定行程，我们准时离开维尔茨堡，顺路在边境方向的大型超市补给食物和矿泉水后，高速穿绕阿尔卑斯（Allgau）山麓，当来到德瑞边境站时，因车尾行李过多，触发随机抽查。负责检查的是一位新手官员，旁边的女教宫官把我们当教材，手把手教他核对我们的护照身份，整个过程化了四十分钟，才盖章放行。儿子重新发动引擎，车轮这才碾过边境白线，一家人的德国旅程按下暂停。太阳在身后慢慢西沉，前方，阿尔卑斯山脊一寸寸向我们涌来，沿途山路崎岖，暮色渐浓，只得让车速收敛野性，在盘山的臂弯里匍匐前行。</p><p> 经十小时的跋涉，车子爬上哈斯利贝格（Hasliberg）半山腰的民宿别墅。儿子、儿媳几经周折与往返，终于锁定早先预订的那栋民宿别墅。该住处踞车库后上方，十几级台阶陡然爬升。</p><p> 搬行李时，孙女把亮起灯的手机举在胸前，将灯光沿台阶上下探照，嘴里连声提醒：“爷爷奶奶小心台阶！”活脱脱一只发光的精灵。</p><p> 等最后一件行李挪进门，大家已累得只剩呼吸声，匆匆洗漱，缩进被窝，任山风替我们把午夜翻页，把那条被拉长的黄昏，悄悄折进阿尔卑斯山的褶皱。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008153054front2_0_903999_FnthNxbSYHE7d2LXGnbxRkWOejl9.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4160" height="3120" data-qf-origin="forum/20251008153054front2_0_903999_FnthNxbSYHE7d2LXGnbxRkWOejl9.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251008153054front2_0_903999_FnthNxbSYHE7d2LXGnbxRkWOejl9.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251008153054front2_0_903999_FnthNxbSYHE7d2LXGnbxRkWOejl9.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>（待续）</p> <!----></div> 欣赏佳作超赞！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 好美好美的风光:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 洪老师一家好幸福哦！ https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 河水蜿蜒如带，浓荫与云朵沉入水底，远远望去，像一幅被风轻轻熨平的旧织锦。比喻，生动形象！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 将简单的事做到极致，便是不简单；将平凡的事做到极致，便能成就非凡。你只管努力写作，时间自会给你想要的答案。
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