德瑞夏日纪行（三）——写在少女峰 斯芬克斯观景台的山风里
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p class="">文/洪其璜</p><p>德瑞游第6天，2025年7月22日</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251111091037front2_0_903999_FqzRet0stIM7J0mNDB7UBdtY9X28.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1040" height="780" data-qf-origin="forum/20251111091037front2_0_903999_FqzRet0stIM7J0mNDB7UBdtY9X28.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>清晨，山雀的啁啾掀开新一天的扉页。阳光爬上窗帘，金色邀请函悄然拆开，今天要去少女峰（Jungfraujoch）——那座屹立了几千万年的雪白女王。游人只能抵近山肩，无缘4158 m冠冕。我“刷”地拉开窗帘，老伴用额头抵玻璃说：“今天好天气。”</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251111093237front2_0_903999_FiaSPdX5NZ_9xw0XoNW-Tv7q6kF2.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1024" height="768" data-qf-origin="forum/20251111093237front2_0_903999_FiaSPdX5NZ_9xw0XoNW-Tv7q6kF2.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>窗外，哈斯利贝格的山坡浸在淡青色的晨雾里，红屋顶的晨露闪着碎银；云雾淌过山壑，忽与山体相拥，忽与蓝天击掌。阳光洒满山峰，白雪熠熠生辉。</p><p>“奶奶”——一阵银铃般的叫声从楼上传下来，将我与老伴从窗外的画卷里唤回。</p><p>循声望去，孙女已蹦蹦跳跳出现在楼梯口，儿子夫妇笑跟在后。</p><p>少顷，出国后的第一顿中餐摆上餐桌：番茄炒蛋、青菜挂面，七分故乡味，三分旅途的倦意。</p><p>早餐后，穿上儿媳提前备好的冲锋衣，儿子驾车到因特拉肯东站（Interlaken Ost）。换乘齿轮火车，经格林瓦尔德（Grindelwald）一路钻进岩壁深处，再换红色车头的火车继续爬升。齿轮咬进岩层，四季在齿间切换：山麓草香未散，雪线冰碴已溅白烟。</p><p>12：00刚过，列车把我们轻轻吐在少女峰站。儿媳走进商店，出来时手中多了两顶红绒线帽，像捧回两枚小火苗；一顶当场给孙女戴上，一顶放入行囊，说要带回家给外孙女。</p><p>随后一家人走进高速电梯，不到半分钟便到斯芬克斯观景平台（Sphinx Observatory，3571 m）。门一开，寒风（约 −1 ℃）扑面而来。儿媳提醒我们：“拉紧领口，戴好雪镜，注意脚下防滑。”</p><p>手机弹出上海 38 ℃的高温预警，上海的高温折成一张滚烫的明信片：那边是炙烤的柏油路，这边是冰晶擦亮的天空。</p><p>观景台360°敞开，雪山一览无余。正南方，少女峰（4158 m）的三角雪脊像一枚白楔，钉进蓝天，云雾缭绕，锋芒半隐。雪峰的冷光先一步坠入瞳孔，把众人的视线倏地锁住。阿尔卑斯最长的阿莱奇冰川（Aletsch Glacier，长约23 km）像一幅白色经卷，铺陈在苍穹与峡谷之间。儿子说，它正以肉眼可辨的速度消失，两百年后或许不复存在。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251111092318front2_0_903999_FvpDGRToPu-LaRAQUDxsDbvw5CaW.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1000" height="750" data-qf-origin="forum/20251111092318front2_0_903999_FvpDGRToPu-LaRAQUDxsDbvw5CaW.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>远处，法国孚日山脉的淡影与德国黑森林的墨线交替浮现；雪线以上，国界只是云的裂缝。我弯腰捏实一把雪，随手抛向云缝，像替故乡扔了个信物。</p><p>在这方寸之地，人潮来回，黄发碧眼与黑发黄肤搅成五彩漩涡。看到小朋友们在玩雪仗，孙女也如法炮制，联合老伴，向我开炮。一枚雪弹击中我的领口，冰得人原地起跳。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251111093744front2_0_903999_FojvyG-gYms-nFUXvYZbMnNlX69b.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="735" height="849" data-qf-origin="forum/20251111093744front2_0_903999_FojvyG-gYms-nFUXvYZbMnNlX69b.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>“还是壮观！”儿子与儿媳第二次重游，仍忍不住喊。相机快门“咔嚓”作响，定格每一帧欢笑……</p><p>时间在齿轨的律动里收拢。儿子轻声说：“得下山了。”大家拍掉身上的雪粒，孙女挥动小红帽：“再见，少女峰！”电梯门阖上，雪山被切成一条细缝，倏地消失在门后。</p><p>下午，从少女峰火车站下山，列车一路松闸，把白色峭壁翻回绿色坡面。在小夏戴克（Kleine Scheidegg）换乘并稍作停留，即前往无车小镇翁根（Wengen）。</p><p>高原反应已退潮，我们漫步在保留着20世纪初“美好时代”风情的老街。木屋窗框彩绘成诗，像一封旧情书，被山风重新折开。孙女发现儿童乐园，挣脱奶奶的手，与小朋友们混成一片。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251111092706front2_0_903999_Fhr0mQR6CmCtAY6Kq6iOiSZ8GvW7.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1040" height="780" data-qf-origin="forum/20251111092706front2_0_903999_Fhr0mQR6CmCtAY6Kq6iOiSZ8GvW7.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>时间被山风拉成长音，沙沙地铺在缓坡草甸上。傍晚，火车鸣笛。三代人的背影被粉色晚霞缓缓收进画面，像被一枚巨大的印章盖在天边——那串数字，终于从海拔变成心跳。雪峰被压成青白脊线，悄悄嵌进暮色。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251111093529front2_0_903999_Foxy6PNdOhTGlSFN2bTKPP2gTzW5.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3000" height="4000" data-qf-origin="forum/20251111093529front2_0_903999_Foxy6PNdOhTGlSFN2bTKPP2gTzW5.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251111093529front2_0_903999_Foxy6PNdOhTGlSFN2bTKPP2gTzW5.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251111093529front2_0_903999_Foxy6PNdOhTGlSFN2bTKPP2gTzW5.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>（未完待续）</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p> <!----></div> 点赞学习！:victory::victory::victory: 欣赏洪老师游记佳作超赞:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 因为眼睛问题，就不细致点评了，敬请谅解:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 特别感谢你每天坚持写作，我眼睛手术了，每天只能短暂时间看手机！ 跟着老师去旅游
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