散文《游海宁盐官古城》楼洪民
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p> 游海宁盐官古城</p><p> 楼洪民</p><p> 和熙的阳光，照耀着温柔的盐官大地。古城内的小河碧绿清澈，古建筑墙体与桐油色木板雕刻，给人以古旧的韵味。透过疏朗的树枝，踏步在青石板街上，感觉空气里都飘浮着淡淡的新鲜味，说不清这是盐官古土的湿润，还是草木的清香气息，让人体味到这座遐迩闻名的古城的能量和故事有多么地神奇。</p><p> 盐官镇，始建于西汉（公元前195年），因煮海为盐、设司盐之官而得名，至今已有2200多年历史。‌‌</p><p> 保留的古城核心区面积足有 2.1 平方公里，它是在原貌的基础上全新规划而成。一位街上商店老板说，原有的古城居民全已拆迁，昔日的烟火暂歇，如今换来了整饬有序的新古城格局，空城中不见杂乱，唯有精心雕琢的景致与恢弘的建筑，静静等候着时光繁华的重启。</p><p> 踏入盐官古城内的那一刻间，掩入眼帘的是一条长长的清澈的内运河，它就象一条碧绿的绸带，纵横交错地贯穿着新规划的回字型古镇的建筑群中，碧绿清澈得象块未经雕琢的玉，在冬阳下泛着粼粼的光。河水不疾不徐地平淌着，那般的静美，那般的秀丽，简直让人感叹到这般独特的城中运河的韵美。</p><p class=""> 行至御码头，新铺的石阶一级级探向碧水，仿佛还留着旧时盐官古船靠岸时的余温。码头边的碧水里，几艘小乌篷船静卧着，乌漆的船身衬着黛色船篷，像被冬阳浸软的墨痕。摇橹人桨斜倚在船舷上，木橹轻搭在水面，偶尔拨弄一下，便漾开一圈圈细碎的涟漪，把江南水乡的温柔与慵懒，都融进了这一汪清澈碧水间。</p><p> 垂枝拂水，与水中的倒影相映成趣，这几条清清的内河，成了古镇最灵动的点缀，让人心生欢喜，印象格外深刻。</p><p> 循着水声往前，拱辰门的轮廓便撞进视野 ，青砖垒砌的门楣刻着岁月的纹路，飞檐翘角沾着淡淡的日光，门内连片的古建筑顺着街巷铺展开来，青灰砖墙黛瓦映着碧水，木窗格透着温馨苑怡，每一处雕梁画栋都藏着江南的婉约与温柔，而新建筑特有的恢宏气势，又让这份婉柔多了几分大气，让人一脚踏进了时光沉淀与现代规划交融的岁月静好里。</p><p class=""> 偶见流水竹斗倒倾，五面铜锣发出五种异样铜音的轮流击打声，让人产生一种奇妙的暇思。</p><p> 中年男导游的声音，伴着初冬阳光的暖意，引导我们踏上长长的青石板街。新彻石板已被游人磨得青透发亮，每一步踩下去，似乎与千年时光轻轻的碰撞与叩响。沿街的廊檐下，几盏红灯笼在微风里轻轻摇晃，熙光浅影落在肩头，暖融融的。</p><p class=""> 沿途望去，古镇建筑格局规整，既保留了江南民居的古朴风貌，又在细节处透着现代设计的精巧，墙面整洁、街巷宽阔，没有昔日居民区的杂乱，却更显得大气磅礴，让人不由得畅想着它未来的热闹景象。</p><p class=""> 一路走一路看，导游带着我们来到了陈阁老宅的黑漆大门前，门楣上的题字泛着温情的光，仿佛时间倒流在小时候炎热夏天的夜晚，坐在大人们身边聆听乾隆皇帝下江南，寻找亲生父母亲的系列传说故事，圆梦少儿时所猜想文渊阁大学士陈阁老宅院光耀的门庭与恢宏的气派与尺度。</p><p> 跨进陈阁老宅的内屋，便被一股沉淀百年的厚重与气派所包容。整座宅院循着江南大户的规制铺展，前厅中厅与后厅，侧房，小院，层层递进，遥相呼应，左右坊间别具一格，连廊曲折迂回，将各个院落和防火墙间隔，巧妙串联，一眼难望尽头，足见当年陈氏家族的显赫。</p><p class=""> 清朝民居古建筑保存的如此完好，令人叹奇。前厅开阔轩敞，高阔的梁架气势恢宏，深色的木质梁柱沉稳挺拔。中厅客厅左右两边套间中悬挂的 “文渊阁大学士，回避” 手牌，木质泛出温宁的包浆，牌面字迹遒劲有力，虽历经百年风雨，仍透着不容置疑的威严。</p><p> 旁边游人说:“当年陈阁老官至文渊阁大学士，这手牌便是他出行时的仪仗。”</p><p> 令人念念称奇的是，乾隆皇帝六下江南，竟有四次驻宿于此。</p><p class=""> 钻进陈阁老宅的雕花门廊，仿佛百年民间传说的故事藏在镂空窗格里。</p><p> 踏入陈阁老宅的厅室与卧房，满室浸润着岁月光泽的红木家具已变得厚重的黑漆，光泽发亮和庄重，令人驻足沉浸。</p><p> 会客厅里，一套完整的黑漆红木八仙桌与太师椅居中摆放，桌面纹理清晰如行云流水，椅背上的雕花繁复精巧，桌案两端的红木花几托着古瓷花瓶，墙面悬挂的屏刻着盈联，整个客厅在黑漆红木的沉静与细节的精致中，尽显大学士府邸的庄重与雅致。</p><p> 卧房桐油色木家具少了前厅的威严，多了几分居家的温馨，木床的床楣雕刻着 “松鹤延年”“龙凤呈祥”，床边的木梳妆台小巧玲珑，柜门上的浮雕图案层次分明。</p><p> 各个房间的装饰细节，既有简朴的空间，也有显度的气派，精美的梁架斗拱、各式雕花窗格，搭配着墙上的字画、架上的古玩，既透着文人雅士的审美情趣，又彰显着官宦世家的富贵荣华。</p><p> 拾后厅木楼梯而上，楼上的格局更为宽敞气派，宽阔的板房连通着几个房间，雕花的栏杆精致典雅，凭栏远眺，老宅前荒废的花园变成新栽的树景，远处古民居尽收眼底。</p><p> 从陈阁老宅出来，循着导游的指引向北折返，脚下的青石板路渐渐多了几分沉肃的年代感。</p><p> 海宁旧警察局的青砖小楼静静立在街巷一侧，墙面带着岁月的斑驳，桐油漆门窗虽显陈旧，却依旧透着规整的威严，与周围新规划的整洁环境形成了巧妙的呼应。</p><p> 踏入室内，一股混杂着木质旧物与淡淡尘埃的气息扑面而来。前厅的办公场所里，几张深褐色的实木办公桌整齐排列，桌上的电话机，搪瓷缸、老式台灯一一摆放着，透着严谨规范的秩序感。</p><p> 走进天井，便见红色砖墙右则悬挂着一块白底黑字的海宁警察局档案室牌子，走入室内，一排排档案柜整齐排列，柜门上贴着泛黄的标签，隐约能辨认出 “户籍”“案宗” 等字样。</p><p> 穿过办公区，来到楼上，里间的陈列瞬间让人屏住呼吸 ，墙上密密麻麻悬挂着近百支步枪，枪身泛着冷硬的钢铁光泽，枪管笔直，枪托因年代久远泛着深沉的木色。楼板上，东西两侧，摆放着二门古钢炮静静伫立，炮身粗壮厚重，锈迹斑驳的绿色炮筒指向半空，仿佛还能听见当年隆隆的炮响。木墙架上还陈列着捆扎整齐的炸药包，外层麻布已有些泛黄，旁边散落着手榴弹、子弹带等各类火器，每一件都带着戒备或上街巡逻的印记，在昏暗的光线下更显肃穆。</p><p> 审讯室的木门敞开着，尚未踏入，一股阴森森的寒气便顺着门面扑来。走进门槛，浅浅的光线里，那些沾染着岁月血腥气的刑具静静陈列。墙角的铁链一端固定在斑驳的墙面上，链环粗重，泛着冷硬的铁色，上面还残留着暗红色的锈迹。屋子中央，一张发黑的木质老虎凳格外扎眼，凳面粗糙坚硬，两侧的扶手带着束缚的弧度，凳下还垫着几块厚重的木楔。中间摆放着的铁架上，挂着一把烧得发黑的三角形火钳烙铁，钳口扭曲变形，边缘留着烧灼后的焦黑痕迹；旁边散落着带刺的铁鞭、沉重的脚镣，大的惊人出奇。刑房内还有一些形状怪异的刑具。墙角的一块铁板上隐约能看到深浅不一的焦痕，联想到电影电视中用来烙烫犯人的刑具，让人不由得脊背发凉。</p><p> 出了海宁旧警察局，跟随一名女老师循着街巷向西而行，沉肃压抑的气息渐渐被江南古镇的温柔所冲淡。</p><p> 郑晓沧故居，一座藏在街巷深处的江南宅院，没有陈阁老宅的恢宏，却多了几分文人雅士的气息。</p><p class=""> 陈晓沧，名宗海，字晓沧，以字行世，浙江海宁市盐官镇人。</p><p> 1914年北京清华学校文科毕业后即赴美留学，先后在美国威斯康星大学、哥伦比亚大学师范学院攻读教育，获教育学硕士学位。1918年回国，历任南京高等师范教授、中央大学教育院院长、浙江省立女子中学校长等职。时任浙江师范学院教育系教授、浙江师范学院院长。后任杭州大学教育系教授、杭州大学顾问、浙江省教育学会名誉会长。 </p><p> 故居的建筑是典型的江南民居风格，青墙黛瓦，木窗雕花，连廊曲折。室内陈设简洁雅致，一张桐色木书桌靠窗摆放，桌面上摆着老式砚台、毛笔与几本泛黄的线装书；墙上悬挂着郑晓沧先生的字画，笔墨清雅，透着学者的儒雅风骨。</p><p class=""> 盐官古镇的街巷如织，可看的景致铺了一路，加之文友们各有偏爱，走着走着，原本同行的队伍便渐渐散了。</p><p class=""> 重踏上御码头时，远远望见失散的陈松民和奋斗老师大步踏来，顿时冲淡了独行的寂寥。我们寒暄几句，便向南大步前行。</p><p> 路过海宁日报馆，数份黑白发脆的《浙江白话新报》，静静铺展在报柜中。目光扫过版面时，一行标题骤然撞入眼帘 “我国之世界的学者王国维投昆明湖自沉”，寥寥数字的标题，似惊雷在心头炸响。同行的几位文友老师纷纷驻足，手指触着报架，轻轻拾起报纸，神色凝重。报纸上的短讯简练地记述着事发经过，让人不由得想起先生 “独立之精神，自由之思想” 的治学箴言。展柜里的报纸不过一张薄纸，却承载着一段令人扼腕的往事，冬阳照在纸页上，那些白纸铅墨的字迹仿佛有了生命，映出一位学者的孤高与悲壮。</p><p> 南行二华里，拐弯向东走一华里，又折北数百米，再穿过大片正在修缮的民居，向西步行百米，终于找到了目的地。</p><p> 踏入金庸书院，几间不大的展室，却藏着一片江湖的浩瀚。墙面被整齐的书架与陈列框填满，从 50 年代的《书剑恩仇录》，到 60 年代的 “射雕三部曲”，再到八九十年代的《鹿鼎记》《笑傲江湖》，四十载笔耕不辍的武侠经典一一陈列，泛黄的初版书页、修订版的精致装帧，层层叠叠铺满墙面，仿佛将半个世纪的江湖风云都凝缩于此。</p><p> 展室一隅的展板上，金庸先生的简历脉络清晰，从嘉兴海宁的少年求学，到报界的笔耕生涯，再到武侠创作的巅峰岁月，寥寥数语串联起他跌宕而传奇的一生。不大的空间里，唯有书籍的墨香与岁月的沉静交织，每一本著作都是一段江湖传奇，无声却有力地彰显着金庸先生对武侠小说创作的人文底蕴。</p><p> 我们三男一女一行四人 走出金庸书院，循着路人指示向西。</p><p> 两华里多路程的景色，沉默在赶时间急行军般的匆忙脚步声中掠过，沿途的街巷渐渐褪去热闹，直到行至古镇最西南的偏僻角落，王国维先生的故居才在一片草坪地前，林木掩映中显露身影。</p><p> 王国维，字‌静安，号‌观堂，谥‌忠悫，是中国近现代相交时期一位享有国际声誉的著名学者，在哲学、文学、史学、古文字学、考古学等领域成就卓著，被誉为“‌国学大师”。‌</p><p> 王国维出生于‌1877年12月3日，卒于1927年6月2日)浙江省海宁州（今‌嘉兴市海宁），自幼接受传统教育，16岁中秀才。早年研习西方哲学与美学，后转向文学、戏曲研究，并最终在史学、考古学领域达到巅峰。1925年出任清华国学研究院导师，与‌梁启超、陈寅恪、赵元任、‌李济并称“‌清华五导师”。1927年6月2日于‌北京颐和园昆明湖自沉，终年50岁。‌‌</p><p>著有《海宁王静安先生遗书》《红楼梦评论》《宋元戏曲考》《人间词话》《观堂集林》《古史新证》《曲录》《殷周制度论》《流沙坠简》等六十多部名著。</p><p> 三间低矮的白色普通民房静静伫立，没有雕梁画栋的繁复，也无朱红大门的气派，唯有门前一块简单的木牌，刻着 “王国维故居” 四字，在冬阳下透着几分清寂。</p><p> 站在庭院中，望着眼前简朴却整洁的民房，心中满是触动。白墙已染上岁月的斑驳，部分墙面微微泛黄，但已粉刷几成新，屋顶的瓦片带着风雨侵蚀的痕迹，却排列整齐。屋前干净整洁，窗棂虽陈旧却擦拭得透亮，这份极致的清洁，恰如先生治学的严谨与人格的纯粹。</p><p> 踏入屋内，空间不大却规整有序，靠墙的展柜与悬挂的展板静静诉说着先生的一生。展板上的简历脉络清晰，从海宁盐官的少年郎到清华国学院的 “四大导师”，每一段经历都藏着治学的艰辛与执着。展柜中陈列的《人间词话》《宋元戏曲考》《观堂集林》等著作复刻本整齐排列，字字珠玑，堪称 “学贯中西、融汇古今” 的典范。屋内的老旧书桌、盛满书籍的木柜、朴素的蓝布长衫照片，皆透着朴素本色，却在这份简朴与清洁中，透着震撼人心的力量。</p><p> 一路游览下来，我愈发感慨盐官古镇的潜力。如今虽是座空城，基于原貌的精心设计规划、气势宏大的新建筑、清澈灵动的内河，都为它的未来埋下了伏笔。</p><p> 踏上返程的大巴车，回望盐官古城渐渐远去，仓促的时间，虽有未尽兴的遗憾，却也满载着沉甸甸的收获与对未来的期望，那些走过的路、看过的景、触及到的人文历史景观与现代规划的新貌，都成了此次盐官古城之行最珍贵的记忆。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class=""> 2025年"11月25日，第三稿于深夜</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img 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src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251125195156front2_0_427907_Fo4dBjq_uopFqoTUTXKXk84IIeZB.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="540" height="720" data-qf-origin="forum/20251125195156front2_0_427907_Fo4dBjq_uopFqoTUTXKXk84IIeZB.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251125195156front2_0_427907_FtLhjs_kpOMMyHhwygBvXPBixFuk.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="868" height="1156" data-qf-origin="forum/20251125195156front2_0_427907_FtLhjs_kpOMMyHhwygBvXPBixFuk.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251125195234front2_0_427907_Fky3gFTCKovQBhu9OlyFLprnalAw.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1156" height="868" data-qf-origin="forum/20251125195234front2_0_427907_Fky3gFTCKovQBhu9OlyFLprnalAw.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="">金庸书院内展室</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251125195234front2_0_427907_FlxJg905VYhZ6enW0sR0uUblSg8o.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="868" height="1156" data-qf-origin="forum/20251125195234front2_0_427907_FlxJg905VYhZ6enW0sR0uUblSg8o.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251126043552front2_0_427907_Fuo5ykweZ4mK_S2oIb_H1nBbJ8sm.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="397" height="529" data-qf-origin="forum/20251126043552front2_0_427907_Fuo5ykweZ4mK_S2oIb_H1nBbJ8sm.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>陈晓沧</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251126043815front2_0_427907_Fj1GB-D_804RRVhyabL6PjfN_E-A.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1156" height="868" data-qf-origin="forum/20251126043815front2_0_427907_Fj1GB-D_804RRVhyabL6PjfN_E-A.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class=""> 王国维故居</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251126043815front2_0_427907_FuNLFpAvRjP-yBOIFCuwuoOJW8eY.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="868" height="1156" data-qf-origin="forum/20251126043815front2_0_427907_FuNLFpAvRjP-yBOIFCuwuoOJW8eY.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p> <!----></div> 欣赏洪民佳作超赞:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 洪民创作特别特别勤奋，一次采风，竟然写了两篇散文，好样的:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 http://pics-app.cnyw.net/_20190527112926_5ceb59968de1b.png送出友情帮顶x1 楼老师晚上好！给你点赞
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