德瑞夏日纪行（五）——龙疆的笑声 施皮茨的雨声
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p class="">文/洪其璜</p><p>2025年7月24日 德瑞游第八天</p><p>连日奔波，儿子夫妇把清晨交给被窝。我和老伴拗不过早起习惯，去屋后山径报到。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123152651front2_0_903999_FpIlM1TOlWQYHaubTnwsMWmp7z0m.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3000" height="4000" data-qf-origin="forum/20260123152651front2_0_903999_FpIlM1TOlWQYHaubTnwsMWmp7z0m.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123152651front2_0_903999_FpIlM1TOlWQYHaubTnwsMWmp7z0m.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20260123152651front2_0_903999_FpIlM1TOlWQYHaubTnwsMWmp7z0m.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>灰白色的沙石路缠在山腰，草甸顺着山坡铺出绿毯，云杉层层接力，把绿送进云雾；数座木屋星子般散落其间，让整座哈斯利贝格把晨色拼成一幅生动的油画。若不是惦记着做早餐，我们会在这条山径继续走下去。</p><p>“叮——”闹钟脆响，孙女在楼梯口喊：“奶奶，今天去龙疆！”</p><p>早餐后，我们下山折回哈斯利贝格村口，车子像收起缆绳的小船，顺着公路滑向龙疆（Lungern，海拔688 m），二十分钟到达目的地。眼前小镇游人如织，先声夺人的是耸立在制高点的埃格利斯米歇尔教堂（AIte Kirche）；一幢幢造型别致的木屋临湖而立；庭园内绿茵平展，窗框漆成雪白、苔绿或丁香紫，阳台垂着天竺葵，花儿在风中轻轻点头。花草与松木的甜味被风揉在一起，一齐涌进鼻翼。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123153047front2_0_903999_Fg5yltoR0pSL1Fu1dlDVl4uZMsLS.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1024" height="768" data-qf-origin="forum/20260123153047front2_0_903999_Fg5yltoR0pSL1Fu1dlDVl4uZMsLS.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>龙疆湖（Lungernsee）蓝绿交叠，清澈见底，微风掠过，涟漪小步跑上，像替水面先握手。老伴率先拾起扁石，侧身抛向湖面，“嗒嗒嗒”连跳三下；孙女立刻模仿，却总“咚”一声。儿子弯腰示范：“手腕放平，石片贴水。”几番尝试，小丫头终于劈出三跳，掌声与欢呼在镜面般的湖上荡开。</p><p>清晨气温 8 ℃，把手指探进湖水，竟带着微热，我掬水作势要泼孙女，她见状逃往老伴：“奶奶，看爷爷！”“爷爷跳下去试试！”我回她鬼脸：“得先问湖水同不同意。”</p><p>湖边大橡树撑开绿伞，树荫下摆着长椅。“爸妈，坐那儿！”儿媳举机，“咔嚓”一声，湖光、山色、笑脸同时定格——龙疆的上午被封存在底片，也封存在记忆。拍完照后，儿媳补白：“早先这里游客没那么多，韩剧《爱的迫降》大结局在这里取景，才冲上热搜。”她的一句话，给湖景贴上流行标签。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123153158front2_0_903999_FkHDGwqnUgE4Gwrh0EM10iLQSbn0.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3052" height="4071" data-qf-origin="forum/20260123153158front2_0_903999_FkHDGwqnUgE4Gwrh0EM10iLQSbn0.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123153158front2_0_903999_FkHDGwqnUgE4Gwrh0EM10iLQSbn0.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20260123153158front2_0_903999_FkHDGwqnUgE4Gwrh0EM10iLQSbn0.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>天不作美，阵雨扫过湖心，远处水面被雨点打出无数小坑。因没带雨具，只能结束这段旅程。儿子刷天气：“施皮茨（Spiez，海拔607 m）无雨，此去30公里。”</p><p>车窗外，峰与湖轮番登场，仿佛被山风随手掀动的山水长卷——目不睱接。约半小时车程，抵施皮茨。小镇车位四色分明，蓝位免费却限时。车载导航的箭头左弯右绕，终于把车卡进蓝位，计时牌啪地扣下——给昂贵的瑞士时间踩了点刹。</p><p>一家人直奔施皮茨火车站，站口观景台踞高临下，360度无死角：木屋沿坡级级跌落，红瓦与白墙被午后云光切成明暗两色；最低处，图恩湖像打翻的蓝墨水，游船拖出慢笔尾迹；湖对岸，阿尔卑斯山脊排成一道银墙，雪线以上白云缠绕，远看竟分不清哪是雪哪是云。不远处的葡萄园梯田与尼森山融合了自然壮丽，构成瑞士典型的童话绝景。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123153450front2_0_903999_FmENLO25HN0T7jUgKZhSNZ8mXPe_.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4000" height="3000" data-qf-origin="forum/20260123153450front2_0_903999_FmENLO25HN0T7jUgKZhSNZ8mXPe_.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123153450front2_0_903999_FmENLO25HN0T7jUgKZhSNZ8mXPe_.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20260123153450front2_0_903999_FmENLO25HN0T7jUgKZhSNZ8mXPe_.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>老伴把身子探出栏杆，好像要把全景纳入囊中，孙女急拽她衣角：“奶奶别掉下去，下面没网兜！”老伴笑说：“放心，奶奶脚底有根，比石墩还稳。”</p><p>沿老街缓步下行，青灰色条石被岁月磨得发亮；转角处，十六世纪喷泉静静涌水，石盆边缘晕开一道铜绿；老面包店的木招牌被雨水洗出蜂蜜色；咖啡香从门缝里溜出来，拽住游人的脚步。古典端雅、宁静祥和，这些词忽然有了体温。</p><p>前往施皮茨古堡的途中，天色仿佛被谁拉下灰帘，乌云擦过屋脊，雨滴倏地洒落。儿子把冲锋衣帽往头上一兜：“我去开车，你们在此避雨！”我们四人随即躲进路边教堂。该处三面环水，右侧下方古堡赫然在目，却因骤雨无缘亲临。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123153754front2_0_903999_Fju45XpWci9kPEOCC3HkxnSwCWEN.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4000" height="3000" data-qf-origin="forum/20260123153754front2_0_903999_Fju45XpWci9kPEOCC3HkxnSwCWEN.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123153754front2_0_903999_Fju45XpWci9kPEOCC3HkxnSwCWEN.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20260123153754front2_0_903999_Fju45XpWci9kPEOCC3HkxnSwCWEN.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>不到二十分钟，银灰旅行车闪着双跳停在教堂阶下。四人踩着水洼冲刺，钻进车厢，把阵雨关进车门，悄悄带走。车窗外，雨线替施皮茨摁下“静音”。车灯亮起，雨刷在玻璃上打节拍——施皮茨的雨声就贴在耳廓里，一路跟到哈斯利贝格山脚，才慢慢淡去。</p><p>（未完待续）</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260123190653front2_0_903999_FtIrx4ZeHzo_lLqbenyshtnk8aum.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="552" height="736" data-qf-origin="forum/20260123190653front2_0_903999_FtIrx4ZeHzo_lLqbenyshtnk8aum.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p> <!----></div> 欣赏洪老师游记佳作超赞:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 洪老师不但诗歌写得精彩，游记也写得相当好！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 图文并茂藏巧思，赏心悦目品佳作。:victory::victory::victory: https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1
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