德瑞夏日纪行（六）——米伦·雨声里的三代脚印
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p class="">文/洪其璜</p><p class=""> </p><p>2025年7月25日 德瑞游第9天</p><p> </p><p>上午。</p><p>施特歇尔贝格（Stechelberg，1035 m）停车场像被雪山折起的逗号，缆车一口吞进85人，垂直爬升十分钟，把我们送到了米伦小镇（Mürren，1650 m）。该镇位于瑞士伯尔尼州少女峰地区，以无车政策和作为高山滑雪发源地而闻名。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260414085833front2_0_903999_nu97mrHq12afZHUx4ivWeZWNLDOw.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3072" height="4096" data-qf-origin="forum/20260414085833front2_0_903999_nu97mrHq12afZHUx4ivWeZWNLDOw.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260414085833front2_0_903999_nu97mrHq12afZHUx4ivWeZWNLDOw.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20260414085833front2_0_903999_nu97mrHq12afZHUx4ivWeZWNLDOw.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>我们沿着小巷行走，鞋底与石板擦出咔嗒声。"去上面玩！"儿子挥手，领我们转向镇边车站。登山火车钢索绷紧，沿峭壁爬行，隧道灯光如流星。出口一亮，世界翻到另一面：游乐场（Allmendhubel Playground）嵌在山腰，木滑梯、平衡木、秋千全用原木组合。最惹眼的是一只半人多高的木雕土拨鼠，后腿直立，前爪收拢在胸，圆腹微挺，似在鞠躬。孙女跑过去摸摸它的头顶，对着儿媳喊："妈妈，学它！"儿媳笑着把冲锋衣拉链拉到领口，母女俩双手屈在胸前，学土拨鼠鼓腮。儿子的相机一闪，把她俩的憨态收进镜头。</p><p>游乐场的后上方是牧场，三三两两的瑞士褐牛在草甸上悠然啃草。孙女与奶奶走近牛群，拈一撮草伸向一头白斑褐牛嘴边，它慢嚼两下，甩甩尾，风裹着草香，漫过草甸扑面而来。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260414090224front2_0_903999_FoWyJr0479CVSpvYLmdiDgAvuiuI.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1260" height="1712" data-qf-origin="forum/20260414090224front2_0_903999_FoWyJr0479CVSpvYLmdiDgAvuiuI.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260414090224front2_0_903999_FoWyJr0479CVSpvYLmdiDgAvuiuI.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20260414090224front2_0_903999_FoWyJr0479CVSpvYLmdiDgAvuiuI.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>游乐场与牧场玩过一圈，返程火车把我们缓缓送回米伦。一杯热可可下肚，儿子与儿媳决定徒步下山。儿媳介绍：该步行道盘绕在陡坡上，从米伦小镇蜿蜒而下，直至施特歇尔贝格缆车站，全长约5公里，沿途可以尽情领略阿尔卑斯的特有风光。这条路，九年前他们蜜月时走过，如今再重走一回。</p><p>说话间，儿媳与孙女已经沉浸在苍翠的草甸中，采山花当"战利品"。串串笑声在山谷间回荡。</p><p>午后，乌云压顶，高山的雨说来就来，沙沙声像谁把老式收音机突然拧开。我撑开唯一一把伞，赶紧把孙女拉在身边，老伴与儿子夫妇仗着冲锋衣，任小雨作背景音乐。水线一落，草甸绿得晃眼，仿佛有人把调色盘打翻在山腰。牛铃声混着雨声，在空气里一圈圈漾开。雾从山坳里升起，时有滑翔伞的影子闪过头顶，把雾幕划开又缝合。</p><p>下山途中，老伴率先探路，身影在雨雾中时隐时现；儿子照顾儿媳殿后，我背包撑伞，腾出一只手，扶孙女缓缓下行。每一步都踩得沉重，仿佛在给地球盖章。爷孙俩走了好一程，孙女向我嘀咕："爷爷，我的能量快耗尽了，只能坚持十分钟。""你是最棒的，爷爷相信你能坚持下去。"我鼓励着。</p><p>砂石被雨水浸得滑腻，孙女脚下一滑，险些摔倒，我顺势拉住她的手腕。"爷爷，抱我下去好吗？"——尾音拖得怯怯的。"碎石滑，爷爷抱着走更危险。咱俩一步一步挪，好不好？"她乖乖地点点头，又朝前探头找奶奶："奶奶呢？脚底抹油，一溜烟不见影子了。"孙女虽然累得直喘气，还不忘调侃："奶奶变成哪吒，装上风火轮了。"</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260414090300front2_0_903999_noEtZQka3Ac2pPSN54xx2PNeVZdF.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4096" height="3064" data-qf-origin="forum/20260414090300front2_0_903999_noEtZQka3Ac2pPSN54xx2PNeVZdF.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260414090300front2_0_903999_noEtZQka3Ac2pPSN54xx2PNeVZdF.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20260414090300front2_0_903999_noEtZQka3Ac2pPSN54xx2PNeVZdF.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>雨越下越密，孙女回头张望："爸爸妈妈真慢，被咱们甩远了。"再转过几道之字弯，她蹲下身："爷爷，我的能量真的要耗尽了，最多再坚持两分钟。"说着用拇指和食指比出一点点距离。在成片挺拔的云杉间，山雀正叽喳喧闹。"你听，鸟儿在给我们加油。今天的经历，会永远留在你的记忆里。"我拉起她，继续下行。</p><p>红顶木房出现在谷底，奶奶坐在檐下向我们挥手："别让爸爸妈妈追上。""好！"孙女打起精神，松开我的手，小跑前去与奶奶会合——原来成长的脚印，就刻在这场雨幕里。</p><p>远山的轮廓被雨抹平，儿子儿媳也来到木屋下。回望来路，三代脚印在沙石小径上交错，又被新雨轻轻拭去。阿尔卑斯的风把爷孙的呼吸、父母的笑、奶奶的背影收进山谷，成为米伦最轻的回声，最重的纪念。</p><p>（未完待续）</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260414090024front2_0_903999_FmdiSXRsH1NGvoPLhXeTdkstmU-l.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3068" height="4096" data-qf-origin="forum/20260414090024front2_0_903999_FmdiSXRsH1NGvoPLhXeTdkstmU-l.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260414090024front2_0_903999_FmdiSXRsH1NGvoPLhXeTdkstmU-l.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20260414090024front2_0_903999_FmdiSXRsH1NGvoPLhXeTdkstmU-l.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>2025.7.25 记于米伦</p><p> 2026.1.6 修改 </p><p>2026.4.13 定稿</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p> <!----></div> 欣赏洪老师游记佳作超赞:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 跟随洪老师游欧洲，十分惬意！ 尽情领略了阿尔卑斯的特有风光！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 阿尔卑斯的风把爷孙的呼吸、父母的笑、奶奶的背影收进山谷，成为米伦最轻的回声，最重的纪念。:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 尽享天伦之乐 点赞欣赏佳作，尽享天伦之乐 好好好，赞赞赞！
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