散文（游记）《烟雨灵山行》楼洪民
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p> 游记 烟雨灵山行</p><p> 楼洪民</p><p> </p><p> 六年前，我到上饶集中营纪念馆时，看了家乡著名诗人冯雪峰的《灵山歌》之后，才知道北边有灵山这座雄伟壮丽的大山。</p><p> 去年，偶尔多次从视频抖音里看到游览灵山，不用费时费力步行上山了，可乘坐索道览车到半山腰，再乘坐世界上最长最高的电梯上山，看得让人心动多回。</p><p> 昨天，我们去德兴妻子娘家探亲回程时，专门拐了个弯，到灵山准备游览一下秀美的风光。</p><p> 灵山，坐落于上饶市广信区北部，是怀玉山脉向南延伸的一条支脉。整座山脉峰脉绵长、沟壑纵横，千米以上的高峰星罗棋布，主峰天梯峰海拔一千四百九十六米，是灵山群峰之冠。</p><p> 自古以来，上饶灵山被誉为 “信州第一山”，位列道家天下第三十三福地，千百年来，凭一山清绝风光，引得文人雅士流连吟咏，留存无数山水诗章。</p><p> 昨日清晨，天色阴凉温润，这在炎热的伏夏，是个难得的出游机会。我们驱车南下，去灵山赴一场山水之约。 </p><p> 沿途德兴至上饶的县级公路两侧，高高青山环抱，田畴平整连绵，绿油油的稻田，美丽乡村，翠绿山峡，山谷，盆地风光，在绿意绿色中穿行。</p><p> 小车抵达灵山山脚景区停车场上，驻足抬望，灵山层峦叠嶂，青黛山峦层层向上延展，主峰隐于远山云雾之中，沉静巍峨，气度不凡。近观山林乔木葱茏，夏风习习，远观天地开阔，山岩巍峨挺拔，浅黄透亮灵山山峰，格外巍峨挺拔，壮观宏伟，未登山路前，就体会一幅绝美的清幽巨岩山体之画。</p><p> 稍作休整，我们几人通过检票口入园，搭乘景区索道向山间行进。</p><p> 索道自海拔三百米的山脚腾空而起，缓缓穿越层层林海、幽幽山谷，一路稳步攀升，最终抵达海拔八百二十米的半山腰索道平台。悬空的缆车缓缓前行，视野随海拔抬升层层拓宽。脚下是繁茂浓密的山林，青松、翠竹与各类阔叶草木交织成片，层层叠叠的绿意铺满整条山坳；两侧崖壁裸露着天然花岗岩岩体，青白相间、纹理苍劲，历经万古风霜依旧挺拔屹立，尽显山川厚重底蕴。</p><p> 走出索道轿厢，山间清凉扑面而来。八百二十米的半山高度，气温较山脚低数度，风润气清，沁人心脾。景区顺应天然山势，在山腰向阳开阔处，修建了多处临崖观景平台，错落分布、视野无遮。</p><p> 我和妻子携手孙子，以及妻子外甥女一家三人，缓步慢行，时不时驻足观景台，凭栏南眺，整个上饶盆地的锦绣山河尽数铺展眼底。</p><p> 南向大地坦荡辽阔，丘陵缓岗起伏连绵，阡陌良田整齐排布，一块块、一片片铺满原野。错落的村落依山傍田，白墙黛瓦点缀在青山绿野之间，静谧悠然。</p><p> 远处长长的信江，如素带蜿蜒，流水幽幽，滋养着这片富饶的赣东北大地。阴凉天色里，天光柔和匀净，山川田野光影，清明无比，山水相依、天地相融，一派岁月静好的田园山河图景。</p><p> 这一刻，让人豁然醒悟，灵山之 “灵”，不止在山石峰林的奇秀，更在俯瞰万家烟火、环抱千里平川的开阔气韵。也只有在灵山，才能感受到这一胜景。</p><p> 我们循着依山而铺的人工青石台阶缓步上行。石阶麻点状防滑，平整古朴，顺着山势曲折延伸，两旁林木蔽日、绿荫匝地，隔绝了外界喧嚣，山间格外阴凉静谧。</p><p> 二十余分钟的缓步攀登，拿着手机拍照取景，耳畔唯有清风拂叶的簌簌轻响、林间松鼠的活蹦乱跳，吸引众多游客观看拍照。偶尔夹杂山鸟惊飞远处，山野清幽洗尽尘心，步步皆是赏心悦目，安然和诗意。</p><p> 行至海拔九百多米的山腰腹地，便抵达灵山标志性的网红千米观光电梯群。这组上山电梯，依天然崖壁而建，顺应山体起伏走势，分为十个层级分段修建，随山势转折抬升，既巧妙贴合自然山形，又极大保留了山水原貌，是灵山独树一帜的观景胜景。</p><p> 十段电梯层层递进、节节升高，每一段电梯出口都配套建有独立悬空观光台，高低错落、视角各异，每攀升一段海拔，便能收获一重全新山景。</p><p> 初乘电梯上行时，天色依旧温润阴凉，视野通透明朗。电梯自千米海拔稳步抬升至一千一百米、一千二百米，脚下的上饶盆地愈发清晰壮阔，田野阡陌、村落溪流、乡道山河，层层铺展，一览众山小，秀美无垠，目之所处，皆是赣东北大地的秀丽山川田野的风华。</p><p> 待我们搭乘至第四段百米高电梯时，海拔已是一千一百多米，山间天气瞬间万变。山脚尚且静风微凉，高山之上，却骤然山风大作，长风穿谷而过、绕崖回旋，林涛翻涌、风声阵阵，凉意瞬间浸透周身。众人皆着单薄衣衫，伫立高台之上，被山风吹得微微瑟缩，真切领略到高山天气瞬息万变的独特气候。</p><p> 行至第五段观光台，海拔接近一千二百米，山风更劲、寒气更重，山间湿冷之气萦绕不散。为抵御山间寒凉，妻子外甥女连忙取出随身携带的一包防雨雨衣，逐一穿上。一件薄雨衣隔山风、御湿寒，瞬间安稳从容。此时远眺远山，峰巅已然泛起淡淡雾影，云烟缓缓流动，预示着一场山间雾景即将悄然而至。</p><p> 转入第六段电梯继续上行，灵山浓雾袭卷而致。原本清晰明朗的奇峰怪石、林海幽谷、远近层峦，转瞬之间被漫天浓雾层层笼罩。乳白的云雾从幽深山谷翻涌升腾，顺着山势肆意漫延，倾刻之间便锁尽千山万壑。方才历历在目的花岗岩峰林、嶙峋崖壁、错落景致尽数隐于雾海，眼前茫茫一片、朦胧无边，近不见山石草木，远不见层峦山河，整座灵山彻底坠入缥缈雾色之中。</p><p> 海拔越高，雾色越浓、山气越凉。一千二百米以上的高山区域，浓雾弥天、封锁群山，天地浑然一色，尽是纯白雾霭。奇妙的是，呼啸山风渐渐平息，山间归于极致静谧，唯有云雾缓缓流转、轻轻涌动。虽无明朗盛景可赏，却独享深山空灵清幽，明朗是山河之秀，朦胧是云山之韵，一实一虚，皆是山水真意。</p><p> 妻子形容踏入了天上云间仙境，其味兴然，确是有生以来，从未有过人间天上云雾飘渺之旅的享受。</p><p> 我们一路搭乘剩余电梯节节登高，穿越完整十段电梯步道，终于抵达电梯顶端观景平台，此处海拔约一千四百米，已是灵山高山游览区的核心高处。立身雾海之中，四周云烟浮沉、清凉湿润，空气纯净甘甜，呼吸之间尽是山林清冽之气，远离市井喧嚣，恍入云海仙境。</p><p> 电梯顶端并非灵山山巅极致，为探寻更高处的山景，我们顺着山顶石阶小径，继续向上攀爬四五十米，最终登临灵山顶部观景高地。此处海拔接近一千四百五十米，立身四望，云雾近处皆是俊秀奇崛的花岗岩山峰。一座座石峰拔地而起、错落相依，石骨清奇、峰姿秀丽，历经亿万年风雨雕琢，岩体纹理苍劲古朴，风骨凛然、独具神韵。</p><p> 无奈漫天浓雾紧锁山头，云海漫漫、咫尺朦胧。我们身在高山之巅，却被雾色阻隔视野，仅能窥见近处零星秀丽岩峰，终究难览灵山全貌、不识群山真面容。世间山水向来如此，圆满有圆满的惊艳，缺憾有缺憾的意境。这漫天雾海虽遮蔽千里盛景，却赠予灵山一份空灵悠远的诗意，也是这次登山难得的别样遭遇。</p><p> 我们立于山巅静赏十多分钟，细细体味高山雾天的静谧与清凉。原本轻柔漂浮的白雾，慢慢厚重凝滞，缓缓凝聚成低压山头的沉沉乌云。天色快速暗沉下来，山间光线愈发昏暗，湿气沉沉、头发全湿，阴气渐浓，大雨将至的征兆变得明显。略懂气象的我，山中气候莫测，不可久留，我们即刻转身，顺着石阶匆匆下山。</p><p> 刚刚搭乘两段下山电梯，天空骤然变脸，滂沱大雨倾泻而下。雨势迅猛、雨帘密集，哗啦啦的雨声瞬间填满整个山谷，天地间烟雨茫茫、水雾蒸腾。我们快步走出电梯，迅速躲入山间古朴的木质小长廊避雨。</p><p> 小长廊依山临谷而建，木质清幽、雅致静谧，是山中避雨赏景的绝佳之地。静站廊下，听雨打山林、雨落击岩谷，潇潇雨韵漫彻山间。漫天大雨冲刷着满山草木崖石，洗尽尘埃、涤净山野，山林，花岗岩石。</p><p> 随着倾盆大雨持续，山间沟壑岩缝、崖壁凹槽积水潺潺流淌，原本静谧无声的山谷，瞬间水声四起、清响不绝。一道道细流顺着陡峭岩壁跌宕坠落，聚成串串水帘、层层叠瀑，错落垂落、叮咚作响，清幽婉转、灵动悦耳。沉寂的灵山幽谷，因一场伏雨焕发生机，流水潺潺、小瀑布参差，雨润千峰、水鸣万壑，景致清绝动人、诗意盎然。</p><p> 待雨势稍稍缓和，我们便趁着间隙继续乘电梯下行，在索道等候室休息许久，换乘索道缓缓下山。</p><p> </p><p> 2026年7月21日，作于义乌家乡。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img 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data-qf-origin="forum/20260721172822front2_0_427907_Fg48N9oVmoln_tmX70mAl1w6nvbz.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20260721172822front2_0_427907_Fg48N9oVmoln_tmX70mAl1w6nvbz.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20260721172822front2_0_427907_Fg48N9oVmoln_tmX70mAl1w6nvbz.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> </p> <!----></div> 欣赏学习，赞赞赞:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 洪民的散文形散而神不散！围绕一个中心，叙述描写细致入微，生动形象，丰富多彩！ https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 十段电梯层层递进、节节升高，每一段电梯出口都配套建有独立悬空观光台，高低错落、视角各异，每攀升一段海拔，便能收获一重全新山景。:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory:
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