易北河把黄昏拉的很长——德、瑞夏日纪行
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p>文/洪其璜</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161523front2_0_903999_FnlOAqZPBB1m5T68bpHQduV2SvXN.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="2000" height="2572" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929161523front2_0_903999_FnlOAqZPBB1m5T68bpHQduV2SvXN.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161523front2_0_903999_FnlOAqZPBB1m5T68bpHQduV2SvXN.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250929161523front2_0_903999_FnlOAqZPBB1m5T68bpHQduV2SvXN.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 2025年7月17日23:35，一家五口——儿子、儿媳、孙女，以及我与老伴——登上LH727航班，从上海浦东机场腾空，十三小时的跨洲飞行，于18日清晨降落在慕尼黑。再转机北飞，云层蜜若棉絮，一小时后机翼微倾，飞机平稳地触地于汉堡机场。儿媳闺蜜丁丁的先生早已在出口迎候，一句轻声的问候，行李被顺手接过的同时，旅途中的倦意也随即滑落。 </p><p> 我与老伴安顿在河滨一家环境优美的酒店，随后一起前往丁丁家。丁丁夫妇热情招待了我们，一桌中西混搭的丰盛午餐摆好。孩子们久别重逢、一边美餐，一边叽叽喳喳地聊天，俨然一个“国际家庭”。 </p><p> 下午，我们一同去逛“微缩世界”（Miniatur Wunderland）。该处是德国汉堡标志性的旅游景点，入门先穿过一条幽暗甬道，再抬眼，仿佛有人将地球微缩：阿尔卑斯山积雪，威尼斯在泛波，汉堡港的吊机正把集装箱码上船。列车车窗透出点点灯光，穿隧道过桥梁；机场跑道竟有微型飞机依次起降，起落架收放自如……</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161602front2_0_903999_FlBfa-rVSbhTAxlXyw3WAzIrtmJY.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="5184" height="3232" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929161602front2_0_903999_FlBfa-rVSbhTAxlXyw3WAzIrtmJY.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161602front2_0_903999_FlBfa-rVSbhTAxlXyw3WAzIrtmJY.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250929161602front2_0_903999_FlBfa-rVSbhTAxlXyw3WAzIrtmJY.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 儿子、儿媳边拍照边介绍着各个主题区域的地理风貌、人文景观，我遍寻四大展区，终于在东南角看到尚未完工用中国版图——脚手架里只立着china2026的蓝色预告牌。 </p><p> 出馆时，夕阳把易北河镀成金线，我们像被从缩小的梦境里轻轻放归，回到辽阔人间，耳边回荡着小小火车穿越阿尔卑斯隧道的哒哒声。 </p><p> 19日 汉堡：石与水的记忆</p><p> 阳光灿烂，气候宜人，漫步在汉堡城区，整座城市一尘不染。随处可见红砖哥特尖顶与欧式楼房错落相邻；街角咖啡馆把座椅铺到人行道边，街巷不见摩托，也不见电动自行车，红白对半涂装的奔驰Citaro巴士悄然驶过，在街景里划出一条弧线。 </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161705front2_0_903999_FjGnMcjbaZSVG57FBxa7wnLENp5a.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="2428" height="3060" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929161705front2_0_903999_FjGnMcjbaZSVG57FBxa7wnLENp5a.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161705front2_0_903999_FjGnMcjbaZSVG57FBxa7wnLENp5a.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250929161705front2_0_903999_FjGnMcjbaZSVG57FBxa7wnLENp5a.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 我们沿易北河向老城走去。先抵市政厅（Rathaus）。这座砂岩新哥特巨厦落成于1897年，二战的烈焰曾把汉堡烧成废墟，它却奇迹般幸存。 </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929161932front2_0_903999_FjQ11pNtXrCsB7QnBJRgYpSFYF2k.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1040" height="780" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929161932front2_0_903999_FjQ11pNtXrCsB7QnBJRgYpSFYF2k.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p> 在市政厅门口，宽阔的广场上，十几个人把成排的旧衣鞋帽，铺在石地板上，没有摊位、没有叫卖，只有纸牌上简单的黑字：Peace, Not War。儿媳低声解释，那些衣物来自中东战地，和平组织把它们带到汉堡，让欧洲也嗅到一丝硝烟。人群围成松散的弧，像围观无声的展览。</p><p> 我们放轻脚步，绕过“人形地毯”，踏进市政厅门廊。门内是另一种声场——穹顶挑高二十米，像倒扣的哥特帆船；橡木地板将脚步回声收束成鼓点。镀金吊灯垂下，灯泡亮得发白。儿子把镜头对准中央楼梯——取景框里，螺旋台阶铺展如折扇，把视线引向高处暗红的门厅。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img 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</p><p> 穿过市政厅北门，仅五分钟，便到圣尼古拉教堂（St. Nikolai）。1943年“蛾摩拉行动”中，盟军轰炸机将老城夷为焦土，战争这把烈火，既焚纳粹，也噬平民，持续数日的轰炸，3.7万余条生命随城市一起湮灭。教堂本体焚毁，如今只剩焦黑的塔身，塔尖指向苍穹，如一枚锈迹斑斑的惊叹号，钉在城市的记忆深处。周边的几处断墙孤峙，隐约可见其曾经有过的宏伟与辉煌。一家人立于废墟前，沉默良久。孙女仰头问：“爷爷，为什么不把它修回去？”我伸手摸了摸焦黑的墙砖，说：“留着，才记得。” </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929162106front2_0_903999_Fjt83XlAlk_gSWDiNuCykV94aJsb.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4416" height="5792" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929162106front2_0_903999_Fjt83XlAlk_gSWDiNuCykV94aJsb.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929162106front2_0_903999_Fjt83XlAlk_gSWDiNuCykV94aJsb.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20250929162106front2_0_903999_Fjt83XlAlk_gSWDiNuCykV94aJsb.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p class=""> 下午，我们登上白色双体游轮。"哗——哗——"河水抢先一步贴上船舷，为接下来的所有画面铺上一层柔软的底噪。 河面宽如湖泊，沿岸红砖仓库、教堂尖顶的光影被水纹揉碎，又即刻重新拼合，声色相融。我斜倚椅背，老伴牵着孙女凭栏眺望，儿子儿媳在旁低声说笑；北海的风把一家五口的影子融进夕照。水声叠涌，一声又一声，与游客的欢笑一起被风卷走，在易北河上空悠悠打转。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img 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</p><p> 归途，天色仍亮——北德夏夜来得很迟，汉堡的纬度让黄昏拉得很长，太阳落山已近晚十点。车窗里并排五张侧影，被夕阳染成蜜色，叠进北德的黄昏里。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929163242front2_0_903999_Fnk9Hb0Z0djcZvLoqbrOcDv8JytD.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4000" height="3000" data-qf-origin="forum/20250929163242front2_0_903999_Fnk9Hb0Z0djcZvLoqbrOcDv8JytD.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20250929163242front2_0_903999_Fnk9Hb0Z0djcZvLoqbrOcDv8JytD.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" 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class=""> </p><p class=""> （待续）</p> <!----></div> 从文字中、图片上，可以体会到那是一个很适合居住、生活的地方，谢谢作者用心分享。 欣赏洪老师佳作超赞:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 一家人周游世界，是多么开心啊！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 欣赏学习老师佳作，点赞！ 谢谢老师分享德国风光无限美好！点赞！ 点赞洪老师佳作
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