德瑞夏日纪行（四）——马特洪峰·山脊云影
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p class="">文/洪其璜</p><p class=""> </p><p>2025年7月23日，德瑞游第七天。</p><p> </p><p>09:00，儿子把导航锁在马特洪峰（Matterhorn），轻按一键启动，驶出哈斯利贝格（Hasliberg）后，公路立刻折成U、S、Z弯，坐在后排中间的孙女，把每个发夹弯都当成过山车，嘴里直喊“好崎岖”，声音跌向窗外，像给大山配字幕。分坐后排两侧的老伴和我，各揽一幅风景；副驾的儿媳把车窗当取景框，举着手机，剪下一段段流动风光。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251227112356front2_0_903999_Fl8HA5Dd0r1DnlE3bEimh87deGkJ.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="4000" height="3000" data-qf-origin="forum/20251227112356front2_0_903999_Fl8HA5Dd0r1DnlE3bEimh87deGkJ.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251227112356front2_0_903999_Fl8HA5Dd0r1DnlE3bEimh87deGkJ.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251227112356front2_0_903999_Fl8HA5Dd0r1DnlE3bEimh87deGkJ.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>山愈爬愈陡，崖壁陡落千米，谷底溪流像一条银线。格里姆瑟尔山口（Grimsel Pass，2165米）在乌云与白雾的接缝处乍现。这里是伯尔尼州与瓦莱州交界处，四面雪山列阵：东贝尔尼纳山脉披玫瑰雪衣，西少女峰在云缝挥白袖。</p><p> </p><p>山口偌大的停车坪上，挤满各种旅游大巴、房车、摩托与单车。停车稍息，刚打开车门，风沿着冰斗灌进来，身上的汗毛直竖，老伴怕冷，率先缩回车里。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251227113753front2_0_903999_FmUDecFjigAqUE_XsLYrbOIyTIiW.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1000" height="750" data-qf-origin="forum/20251227113753front2_0_903999_FmUDecFjigAqUE_XsLYrbOIyTIiW.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>引擎再度低吼，一路向下，车速与海拔成反比。偶有骑行爱好者俯冲，车轮划出急促节拍，为阿尔卑斯长卷添一条流动的五线谱。</p><p> </p><p>百余公里的哈斯利贝格一菲斯普（Visp）线段，被大山抻成四小时的慢放镜头。儿子一句提醒：“前面换齿轨火车。”才把视线从雪峰拽回。</p><p> </p><p>齿轨火车喘一口气，就把我们抬到戈尔内格拉特（Gornergrat，3135米）。跨下车门，脚下的观景台像“悬空阳台”探出千米雪坡之上。眼下冰川蜿蜒曲折，罗莎峰、利菲尔峰等高峰，连缀成壁；往北看，马特洪峰（4478米）把山尖摁进天空，雪被风剥光，露出脊骨。它不说话，却让人感到敬畏与孤独，犹如一位拒绝登基的国王。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251227112508front2_0_903999_FresG5vq9gURn-dZDJTHhxj_zsjS.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="3120" height="4160" data-qf-origin="forum/20251227112508front2_0_903999_FresG5vq9gURn-dZDJTHhxj_zsjS.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251227112508front2_0_903999_FresG5vq9gURn-dZDJTHhxj_zsjS.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" data-qf-thumb-origin="forum/20251227112508front2_0_903999_FresG5vq9gURn-dZDJTHhxj_zsjS.jpg?imageView2/2/w/1080|watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>不同于斯芬克斯观景台，该平台脚下无雪，却步步惊艳：儿子夫妇左右开弓，一个追光，一个取景；孙女与老伴捡石垒玛尼堆，我仰头屏息——天地造景，惊叹瞬间塞满胸腔。</p><p> </p><p>日影渐渐西斜，时间不容在此处继续逗留。沿山脊步道下行数分钟，里佛尔湖（Riffelsee，2757米）忽嵌山体，像一面被山风磨亮的蓝玻璃，马特洪峰倒立其中，把天空折成一条幽蓝的缝。儿子调好焦距，以真山为背景，夫妇同举峰形巧克力，并招呼我：“爸爸，帮我们拍一张。”按下快门，甜蜜与雪色一并入镜。忽然感悟：合家旅行，不过是把一家人的欢乐放进更大的背景。</p><p> </p><p>相互拍照后，他们把时间留给自己，沿着湖岸去重温蜜月旧径。祖孙三人则提前下山，小丫头一路扮小山羊，又学小狗奔跑，咩一声汪一声，童声像小铃铛沿着山坡摇得叮当响。累了便趴在石头上喘口气，说“狗狗要休息”。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251227114611front2_0_903999_FtEHu5A6-wP2E_CBw9lElg3QLsdn.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1040" height="780" data-qf-origin="forum/20251227114611front2_0_903999_FtEHu5A6-wP2E_CBw9lElg3QLsdn.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p>脚下草坡恰似掀开的绿绒毯，龙胆与雪绒花在石缝间点染蓝白，风掠过，草尖簌簌作响。仨人踩着被脚印压实的山径，一路说笑向里佛尔湖站前行；影子被斜阳拉得细长，像三根缝住风景的针。</p><p> </p><p>山坡起伏，弯道几回，都不见那对“新人”踪影。孙女回头扮鬼脸：“爷爷，我送爸妈两个字：臭美！走丢活该！”童稚笑语落在山风里，被悄悄收进阿尔卑斯这本巨大的画册。</p><p> </p><p>约漫步一个半小时，抵达里佛尔湖站不久，那对“臭美”的夫妇背着光出现，额头薄汗，却笑意盎然。</p><p> </p><p>汽笛长鸣，末班火车缓缓进站，在车厢里静看雪峰褪成剪影。在菲斯普出站时，已是夜色四合。儿子驾车驶入归途，儿媳甄别导航，微光映眸；盘山路漆黑如带，车灯挑出一线白。午夜，哈斯利贝格悬在半山，稀疏灯火替我们留门。车门“咔哒”一声，阿尔卑斯被关进夜色。</p><p> </p><p>灯灭，声止，风停了，我俯身去解鞋带，突然发现鞋舌下夹着一粒龙胆花籽，蓝得蜇眼，随即把它塞进冲锋衣口袋——带一颗阿尔卑斯的碎钻回上海。</p><p> </p><p>（未完待续）</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pics-app.cnyw.net/forum/20251227114718front2_0_903999_FrSCNjHXOO1zHzzrt_wTRFAviVu4.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1000" height="750" data-qf-origin="forum/20251227114718front2_0_903999_FrSCNjHXOO1zHzzrt_wTRFAviVu4.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cDovL3BpY3MtYXBwLmNueXcubmV0L18yMDE5MDQyNTA5MTYwMF81Y2MxMGE1MDc5ZjY2LnBuZw==/dissolve/100/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p> <!----></div> 欣赏洪老师游记佳作超赞:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 紧跟洪老师游览欧洲，惬意万分！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 描写细致入微，生动形象，丰富多彩，引人入胜:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: 幸福一家子！:victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory::victory: https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 https://pics-app.cnyw.net/admin_FsbLrH4XpF1aok8fg1u_Me6G4sVj.png送出团圆月x1 欣赏学习老师游记佳作，点赞！
页:
[1]